I FINALLY finished Leaving, from Twist Collective Winter 2010. I started it at the beginning of the year (I think), and stopped when the weather got warm. I picked it up again a couple of months ago but progress was slow, partly because I got bored with it. The pattern calls for the panels on both the front and back, and the stitches involve some knits and purls through the back loop, which can be tedious. The yarn is Valley Yarns Northfield hand-dyed, which I really like. My sweater had to withstand a lot of handling because it took so long to knit and the yarn is very elastic and durable. It's also very comfortable against the skin.
I started this so long ago that I'm not sure I remember what mods I made. I do know that I changed the shape from a-line to a low empire, which is what I always do with a-line shapes. I also made it a couple of inches longer than the pattern's length. I'm not that fond of full length sleeves, but in this case, I really like having the full sleeve length with the stitch pattern.
I really like the lace panels on this sweater, and it fits well enough, but I think I'm not going to knit any more fitted pullovers that have one central vertical panel down the front. If the sweater has negative ease, the panel will always stretch too wide at the bust line, and I dislike that look. I think it gives this illusion of top heaviness. The drape neck top doesn't have as much of a problem because it has much more ease.
6 comments:
Lovely silhouette on you, Betty! Nice color too.
Gosh, Betty, I'm not much of an A-line person either but would love to make the drape neck top (one day!)using the empire shape. Have you explained how to do so in one of your earlier blogs?
Chloe
Very pretty! The yarn has a nice drape.
Your modifications made the sweater fit really well; I agree that those central design panels don't do most wearers any favors.
Hi Chloe -- You know, I never document or explain exactly what mods I do to change shaping, such as from A-line to empire. I think it's because the mods are very specific to my particular size and shape. In general, I just figure how what my starting and ending widths should be, and the length that it takes to get there, and then the gauge determines how many stitches to decrease or increase and the row gauge determines how much to separate the increases/decreases by.
Thanks, Betty! You are a more advanced knitter than I, so I might try to find someone to help me with these shaping changes. (In sewing, I find it a lot easier. Less math.) You have been an inspiration for me in terms of altering knitting patterns to flatter the wearer, and I'm hoping eventually to do that too. Obviously, it makes all the difference.
Chloe
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