Friday, March 3, 2017

Sewing: Linen top

This is a linen top made from a highly modified Vogue Pattern V1247, which is now out of print.

I've sewn this pattern probably 10 times by now because I really liked the tops I made but I tweaked the pattern every time to make it more wearable or easier to sew. I think I've achieved the final version -- the pattern has been modified so much that every piece has been re-drafted and I also have fewer pieces. Here's what I remember as all the changes I've made:

  • I got tired of the cuffs so I removed then and shortened the quasi-sleeves which are just an extension of the bodice.
  • I raised and narrowed the neckline a bit.
  • The original pattern has three pieces for the lower front bodice and I changed it to just one slightly curved piece. This makes it much easier to sew and I never liked the bias aspect of the center lower piece. The curving of my new piece makes it flare out a bit.
  • I like the draping of the top but it was always a bit too baggy so I added 2 darts to my new lower front piece and 2 corresponding pleats to the upper front bodice. This brings in the front fullness just a bit.
  • I shortened the length a bit.
  • I use bias tape to finish off the sleeve openings, the neckline and the bottom. The front and side seams are sewn as french seams.
This should be a really nice top for summer. I bought the linen from Fabrix in San Francisco, and it's a really lightweight fabric with a moderately crisp feel.


Ellen Bloom said...

You've written a whole new pattern, Betty! It looks great on you!

Eli cat said...

LOVE this top! It's good for spring and summer:)